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| Frank's team leaving the start line
chute in the 2003 Yukon Quest International Sled Dog Race. |
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Eagle to Circle City
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Overview: Eagle to Circle City
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This section of the trail, follows the Yukon River most of the
way, retracing some of the old dog-team routes. The river flows
through a mountainous area before widening out on the flats,
with a lot of wetlands and a number of larger tributaries. The
Tatonduk, Nation, Kandick and Charley rivers all flow into the
Yukon along this stretch, which makes it necessary to have many
river crossings.
This 160-mile stretch of trail can be quite slow going, partly
because much of it runs along a wide portion of the Yukon
River. There is not a lot of other winter travel along this
part of the river, so the trailbreakers must put in a new
trail and pack it down. The conditions of this section of
trail will depend greatly on how the freeze up goes –
the ice can be very flat and snow-covered, or wind-blown and
glare ice; or the ice can be massively jumbled, to the point
where trail breakers have to use a chainsaw to cut a path
through the roughly heaped chunks of ice. On the way, there
are several cabins where mushers have traditionally stopped
for rest and shelter – Trout Creek, Biederman's, Slaven's
and Dill's Cabin.
On the first section of trail, from Eagle to Trout Creek,
there tends to be quite a bit of snow. Beyond the Nation,
the trail is more exposed to wind, especially near the Kandik
River. Here the ice is often bare and wind scoured. In some
places the trail will be drifted in and difficult to navigate,
and markers may be blown down. As you can imagine, it is very
difficult to set stakes into bare ice. You can chip a hole,
pile up snow, or make a cairn out of ice chunks. But all those
methods are less than ideal and stakes set like this often
flow down.
After Biederman's, the river widens out and straightens,
through the Yukon-Charley River National Preserve until about
40 miles out of Circle. The last section of the river is relatively
sheltered, as it winds gently through the woods. |
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Eagle to Trout Creek |
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TRICKY TRAIL – Quest musher, Andrew Lesh, of Fairbanks,
guides his team between ice jumbles on on the Yukon River at
Trout Creek, Alaska. AP Photo/Fairbanks Daily News-Miner, Harrel
(2001)
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Trout Creek to Biederman's Cabin |
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The next section of trail is always challenging. Often there
is glare ice on large sections of the river, and there are few
reference points for the dogs, so it can be very mentally challenging
for them, especially for the leaders. A few miles after leaving
Trout Creek, teams will pass the mouth of the Nation River,
which flows in from the North. From the south, the shore is
interrupted frequently by creeks, many with intriguing historic
names: Washington, Juy, Butte, Glenn, Dewey, Logan, Independence,
Fourth of July and Michigan. As the river widens out, there
are many channels and sloughs, with a lot of swampy stretches
and wetlands as the river reaches the Yukon Flats.
About 25 to 30 miles along the trail, teams will see Katherine
Mountain on the north side of the river. In the same area,
Kathul Mountain rises up dramatically. Just after that, a
larger river, the Kandik River, flows in from the northeast.
Shortly past that, teams will reach the mouth of the Kandick
River, where they will find Biederman’s Cabin. The cabin
is set back from the river, just past the Charley River that
flows in from south. |
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Biederman's Cabin |
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The home of Charlie Biederman, Biederman's Cabin is a well-known
landmark on the Quest trail. Biederman drove dogs for many years
and used to deliver mail long this trail in the 1930s, so mushers
always appreciate a chance to stop at his old cabin. Until his
death, in 1995, Charlie Biederman followed the Yukon Quest with
great interest. Indeed, he was Honorary Race Marshall when he
passed away in 1995.
For many years, this cabin was the main resting point between
Eagle and Circle. But the cabin has not been staffed for several
years, so only a few mushers rest here now. Although no longer
used as a dog drop, volunteers sometime still go out to the
cabin to provide hospitality for Quest teams. |
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Biederman's Cabin to Slaven's
Cabin |
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From Biederman’s Cabin, it is just 18 miles to Slaven’s
Cabin. The trail passes the mouth of the Charley River, which
flows in from the south. Just past that, on the north side of
the river, Snowy Peak rises to an elevation of 4,200 feet .
Just past that, mushers will find Slaven's, set on the left-hand
bank of the river, by Coal Creek.
Slaven's is located in an area where there are a number of
cabins, several mining operations and at least three airstrips.
While the area may be bustling in the summertime, it is quiet
and all but deserted in the winter. Slaven's Cabin is a well-appointed
cabin, where Park Rangers host an official dog drop. The rangers
provide hot water for the dogs and food for the mushers. Teams
that stopped at Trout Creek, will likely stop here for a rest.
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Slaven's Cabin |
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The cabin, a spacious two-storey building, houses vets, race
officials and communications. There are even bunks for the mushers
to grab a short nap. With over 150 trail miles between Circle
and Eagle, having a dog drop at Slaven's is really important
for the mushers.
Now the official Dog Drop for this section of trail, the
cabin is staffed by Parks personnel who travel out to the
remote site by snow machine to provide support for the race.
The first year that Parks was involved, it was difficult to
rally enough volunteers for this project. But the next year,
there was a waitlist, and Parks staff have been eager to help
the race ever since. They offer great food and a warm sleeping
place for the mushers at a time when they really need it.
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Slaven's Cabin to Circle City
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From Slaven's it is another 60 miles to Circle. The trail continues
to follow the river for the most part, with a few occasional
portages, through the Yukon-Charley Rivers Preserve. Conditions
vary greatly from year to year, but this section is often challenging.
The wind can either drift the snow over the trail, or strip
the trail, leaving nothing but glare ice – and that can
be very difficult for the dogs to deal with.
Some years the river trail will be flat and smooth, with
clear markings. Other years there have been stretches of glare
ice with no markers, and other years the ice has been badly
jumbled and rough. With glare ice, the dogs find it difficult
to follow a trail and to get any traction. With jumbled ice,
they may have difficulty with footing – so wrist and
shoulder injuries become a serious risk. All along this stretch
of the Yukon, there are many creeks flowing into the river.
A few miles past Slaven’s, teams will pass the old
Woodchopper Roadhouse at the mouth of Woodchopper Creek. Beyond
that they pass Eureka Creek, flowing in from the North through
extensive wetlands. To the south they will see Takhoma Bluff
and Thanksgiving Creek.
Also to the south is the Steese Conservation Area, Mount
Ernest Patty and Mount Kathryn. Once they pass Thanksgiving
Creek, there are hundreds of creeks flowing into the river
from both the north and south banks. Much of this area is
also a wildlife refuge.
Between Slaven’s and Circle there are a number of cabins,
including two that open their doors to the mushers: one forty
miles before Circle, the other one just 20 milles before Circle.
Since the trail from Slaven’s to Circle is just a bit
too long to tackle in one stretch, except in ideal conditions,
most teams will stop in one of these two places.
Half-way between Slaven's and Circle, the trail passes a
small cabin, Dill's, on the left. There may be some hospitality
and hot water here, but not always. As the cabin is just a
short distance out of Circle, most mushers go past without
stopping unless the weather is poor.
At this point, the river is quite wide and open. After many
miles on the open Yukon, the trail winds into town through
a relatively sheltered slough. When teams reach Circle, they
finally get off the broad expanse of the Yukon River and out
of the wind. |
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